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![]() Lazy Lightning racing toward the Bay Bridge![]() GPS GPX Batch Waypoint and Route Creator
Read More ![]() Latitude Longitude ConverterConvert between different latitude and longitude formats. Then copy and past the converted format into other programs. This program will take most any format as input and outputs the result in five different popular formats.Read More ![]() Gross Fine Mainblock Reeving
Read More ![]() Soft Line Shackle on a Block
Read More ![]() A Better Soft ShackleRevised 12/12/2011 -- added calculatorI make and use a lot of soft shackles to attach my jib sheets. The normal soft shackle is rather difficult to open and to milk closed. With age, it gets every more difficult to use. The alterniative Kohlhoff style looks a bit insecure although under load it is perfectly secure. This version is a bit of a hybrid with hopefully the best properties of both. The eye is easy to open but can only be opened just enough to fit the stopper knot through it. Almost any slight force will close it quickly. The basic construction is a passthrough eye, a shackle section of about 2 inches, a passthrough lock and then a bury of the other strand into a body section of about 5 1/2 inches, another passthrough and finally a diamond knot. ![]() Read More ![]() Finding Target Boat Speed to Windward
Read More ![]() Try the L-36 Weather and Tide Page Now!Examples of valid inputs: "San Francisco, CA" "Golden Gate" "Balboa" "Cow Island" "94301" Read More ![]() User comments about the Weather and Tide Page from Forums and emails
Read More ![]() Soft Shackles
Read More ![]() Weather Reporting StationsRead More ![]() Double Soft ShackleThis double ended soft shackle is the 4th generation of a design that can attach to a pair of eye spliced jib sheets to the clew of a sail very quickly. It is also the 5th version of this generation as improvements were made to make the shackle stronger. In use, the shackle is secure around the jib sheet prior to being "clipped" to the clew. This version is easy to make and has the advantage of a non-constricting hold on the jib sheets. There are links to the previous versions at the bottom of this page The Shackle![]() Read More ![]() Main Halyard Soft Shackle Variation
Read More ![]() ![]() We were happy on Papoose to have won our class but sad that one of our fleet was so badly damaged. Eventide was damaged just before the start by a boat from another class. Read More ![]() Eventide T-Boned in MM Regatta![]()
"Eventide was badly damaged at the start of the 2011 Master Mariners. She is safe in her slip in Berkeley and I am making a plan and exploring options for repairs and replacement rigs. I am extremely grateful for the support of the L-36 and Master Mariners community. Damage appears to be limited to her planking and obviously her rig. I will keep the L-36 community updated as to her status. Any previous experience or advice on repairing a large section of an L-36's hull is welcome. I can be emailed directly at gregmilano(at)hotmail(dot)com. Thank you for all of your support." Read More ![]()
My harbor early one morning ![]() Soft Halyard or Line Shackle![]() I am calling this a soft halyard or line shackle as it is certainly not confined to use only on halyards. It is a combined splice-shackle and is similar to a soft shackle where the opening eye is on the line and the knot is on a second piece. It is much faster to use than a soft shackle. In applications where the line is 12 strand spectra such as Amsteel, this is a perfect fit. I have tested it to destruction and the failure was similar to other tests of soft shackles which broke at the diamond knot. Based on all these tests, my conclusion is that it is 80-90% as strong as the line. I must add, the force I put on my 1/8 inch Amsteel using a hydraulic jack was huge, many times the force I got using a Barient 22 winch even with 1/8 inch line. In other words, this is a strong, easy to use shackle is integrated into a line such as a halyard. The line in all these photographs is 3/16 Amsteel Blue. Read More ![]() The headline reads:Lightning strikes a boat in Wisconsin and the boat sinks in less than an hour......On Wednesday, June 8th, 2011 as the sailboat fleets made their way in from the evening races, they were glad to beat the thunderstorm that was coming in from the west. Just at dusk eye witnesses saw a lightning bolt hit a 30 ft ketch swinging on a mooring in McKinley harbor, downtown Milwaukee. " It lit up like a Christmas tree" was how one observer described the event. Within an hour the boat was under water with just portions of the masts showing.Through Hull and BondingNotice the wire going to the through hull in the picture below. Also notice the grounding clamp around the through hull where the connection was made.Read More ![]() Bonding and Corrosion
There are few if any topics in yachting that have as much myth and misinformation surrounding them as does the question of bonding various pieces of your boat together. There is a very good reason for this confusion as the requirements surrounding bonding conflict. It is important to understand when bonding is good and when it is bad so that you can know when you should and when you should not bond. I hope this article will help to clear up some of that confusion. I will try and present the topic in an understandable way so that you can make decisions based on knowledge rather than on opinion or myth. The "big picture" questions that need to be answered are:
If we can answer these questions we can make intelligent decisions about what to do. What does bonding actually do?Read More ![]() ![]() Two TP-52s ![]() InhaulerAn inhauler, sometimes called a Barberhauler, is used to pull the jib sheets inboard from their normal position. You can do that to decrease the sheeting angle or to keep the sheeting angle the same as you let the sheets out to add fullness. We do that when we need more power to drive through the waves. In flat water, we don't use it so we like to have it detachable and easily set up. This setup stores nicely and can be quickly installed on the already set sail. The carabiners I use are very light so they do not harm the paint on the deck. Them and the descending ring are from REI and their 5,000 pound rating, typical of climbing equipment, is ideal for my boat. Get the carabiners with the wire gates.This is generation 3 of my inhauler setup. It is easier to set up than the other versions. The 8:1 purchase seems ideal for the job and the fact that one control line works both port and starboard is a great advantage. Once balanced, you are automatically maintain your trim after a tack. I like to rig my double block so the line is against the deck instead of the face. You can see that in the pictures below. ![]() Read More ![]()
Knot Meter CalibrationIn many area calibrating a Knot Meter is a simple matter of setting it to read what the GPS reads. But if your boat is in areas where there are tides, local current can make this method inaccurate. The following method can be used to calibrate a knot meter even if there are very strong currents.Read More ![]() ![]() Samba Pa Ti and GG Bridge ![]() Over 200 Marine ManualsListed AlphabeticallyRead More
Boat Dimensions
Click Here for other boat types Sail Area Calculations Mainsail = (P x E) / 2 = 311 sq ft 155% Genoa = (( J x I ) / 2) x 1.65 = 451 sq ft Read More ![]() Two Melgeis 32's on split tacks heading to the windward mark |
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L-36.com is owned and maintained by me, Allen Edwards, owner of Papoose hull #5 built in 1956. I also own Allen Edwards Photography. Please visit at Palo Alto Photo . com |
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Lazy Lightning racing toward the Bay Bridge












